Acatenango on your own

If you are visiting Guatemala, and Antigua especially, and if outdoor activities are of interest to you, then hiking to the summit of Acatenango volcano (3976m) is probably on your to do -list. It was on ours too!

Unfortunately Anna suffered an overly active parasite in her system as soon as we got to Antigua, and thus we had to postpone our plans. A few days of rest and many pills later she felt better and we decided to head to the mountain.

Most people go with a guide - we had heard stories of easy routes to the top and decided to opt-out. We were warned of robberies, but did not let it deter us - instead, we left all valuables in the hotel safe. Since 2015, officials had been collecting an entrance fee to the Acatenango area, and we thought that this might have made it safer, too. Also, we dared to go out without a guide because we knew we would only be spending one night on the mountain and thus be a short way away from civilisation. All-in-all, the human mind seems to be a master of self-persuasion.

The evening before, we got some gas for our hiking stove, food and a few rain ponchos and packed most of our (summer) clothes and camping gear, including a single sleeping quilt. So far we had managed well with just one, but this time around were a tad nervous. On the mountain, temperatures are known to plummet below zero at night.

At dawn, we took our gear and a couple of chicken busses, and hitchhiked the final stretch to the starting line close to the town of La Soledad north of Acatenango.

The path to bliss was not paved. We spent the first hour in loose sand taking two steps up and coming one down. Eventually the surface hardened and going got easier as we ascended through lush forests and pinetrees.

In total, it took us about six hours to make our way to base camp, where we'd enjoy the gorgeous sunset and leave our gear for the summit push in the early hours of the morning. At about 3700 meters, and with clear skies, the sun felt very intense, almost heatstroke-intense. This was the first time we had/got to make use of our emergency mylar sheet - against the tent wall, it made for a perfect shade to take an afternoon rest.

A couple of hours later, guided groups began pouring in and, before we realised, nearly every camping spot had a tent on it.

Steep slopes all around us, a steaming pot of rise and raisins and the most beautiful sunset we had seen - could not ask for anything else. 

Until a little more drama was added as the adjacent giant performed its own lava show.

The night was fairly decent with no chills. At four o'clock, we began ascending with the aid of our headlamps. At times, we shone some light on our fellow hikers, whom had not been given the important advice to pack a light source, or had ignored it. This part also had some loose sand, making it very strenuous. In a little less than an hour we had reached the summit, just before the sun bared its bald from behind the clouds. Views were staggering!

The winds on top were relentless and made our hands blue even quicker. Half an hour on top sufficed, after which the path down to base camp looked very intriguing. There we quickly took down our tent, packed our gear and headed further down. After about three hours, from leaving the summit, we found ourselves on the side of the road looking for a ride back into Antigua and clean sheets.

Remarks:

- Definitely worth including in your travel itinerary.

- Reaching the summit is relatively easy, and straight-forward, without a guide. All paths lead to the summit, but some might take a detour. We did have to rely on chance, once. No topographic maps seem to be available.

- The lose sand in the beginning is frustrating, but only lasts for about an hour.

- Do the over-nighter, eventhough a day trip is also possible. By camping on the mountain, you get to experience the sunset and -rise. Volcanic eruptions add to the experience and are more visible at night, although advance orders are not possible.

- Take a ground cloth to protect your tent from the abrasive lava rock at base camp.

- Adhere to the 'leave no trace' -principle. Despite the entrance fee, there is no systematic waste management, nor sanitary facilities. If it did not go through your body, bring it back down. Unfortunately, not everybody does so and litter is starting to build up, especially around camps. Feel free to chastise misconduct.

- Also, there is no water supply on the mountain, so be prepared when departing the city. We had 4 liters per person, including water for cooking. You may be able to buy some at the start line, but should not rely on it.

On gear:

- Sneakers will suffice - no need for hiking boots. We even saw Converse All Stars. So, do not skip the trip even if you don't have the latest hiking apparel.

- We survived by layering our non-hiking gear. However, we were spared from rain, which you might get on the mountain. Keep it in mind.

- The wind can get nasty at the top. Tuomas' poncho froze and was torn to pieces - minimal windbreaking capacity. Our mylar blanket came in handy, again.

- Have a pair of gloves, or buy from the locals at starting line. Or, if you have no other use for gloves, woolen socks do the job as well. These will also come in handy for instance on an overnight and (heavily) airconditioned busride.

- If you don't have your own hiking gear, you can rent them in Antigua. At the starting line, you can buy at least hats, gloves and walking canes from the locals.